Top Ice Screws for Climbing
Black Diamond Ultralight
We found this ice screw to be an excellent choice for weight-conscious climbers seeking reliability and ease of use.
- Lightweight design at 7.4 inches, perfect for reducing gear load.
- Easy handling with a wire-gate express handle and colour-coded knobs.
- Some users noted that it requires practice to place correctly.
PETZL Laser Speed Light
This screw stands out for its durability and effectiveness, making it suitable for various mountaineering scenarios.
- Engineered tip for easier ice penetration, enhancing placement speed.
- Sturdy construction with a flexible crank for improved grip.
- Can be on the heavier side, weighing up to 13 ounces depending on length.
Blue Ice Aero Lite Ice Screw
We believe this is an optimal choice for those who prioritise weight without sacrificing sturdiness.
- The lightest screw available at only 2 ounces for the 3.9-inch version.
- Quick placement with a three-tooth tip and colour-coded lengths for convenience.
- Best suited for experienced climbers; novices may struggle with its technical uses.
Which ice screws are best?
As winter approaches its end, it’s a prime time to consider ice climbing, and ensuring your gear is in top condition is crucial. Among the essentials for ice climbing are ice screws, which resemble construction screws but are designed specifically for ice. If you’re unsure where to begin your search, we found the Black Diamond Ultralight to be an outstanding option.
Important Considerations Before Purchasing Ice Screws
Choosing the Right Length
The length of your ice screws is vital, as it affects how securely your climbing ropes and anchor points are held. Short screws may dislodge easily in thick ice, while overly long screws could hit rock beneath. Most climbers opt for a mix of 5-inch and 8.6-inch screws, especially early in the climbing season.
Ease of Placement
Placing screws should be straightforward, even at height. Practicing with gloves is advisable to ensure you can operate them smoothly. Many models feature ergonomic knobs or handles that facilitate one-handed placement, though longer screws may require additional effort to insert.
Storage Solutions
Proper storage for ice screws is crucial for both accessibility and safeguarding your gear. Consider using ice flutes, which are plastic sleeves designed to protect the screws’ sharp edges, or carabiners that allow for easy attachment to your harness.
What to Look for in Quality Ice Screws
Safety and Load-Bearing Capacity
It’s essential for ice screws to support your weight effectively in case of a fall. Factors such as length, thickness, and insertion angle all contribute to their load-bearing capabilities. High-quality screws can typically endure forces around 1,574 pounds.
Quality Matters
When it comes to safety gear, opting for cheap alternatives can be hazardous. Poor-quality screws may be difficult to place and can compromise your safety. Brands like Petzl, Black Diamond, and Blue Ice are known for their dependable ice screws.
Regular Maintenance
Ice screws require regular sharpening to maintain their performance. Even the best screws will dull over time, so routine maintenance is essential for safety and functionality.
Price Expectations for Ice Screws
The cost of ice screws varies based on length and manufacturer. On average, you can expect to pay between £40 and £90 for a screw around eight inches long, with shorter options typically costing less.
Ice Screws FAQ
How Many Ice Screws Should You Bring?
A. The number of screws you pack will depend on your climbing ability and the route. It’s wise to carry multiple lengths to accommodate varying ice thicknesses.
How Long Do Ice Screws Last?
A. With proper care and regular sharpening, ice screws can last several years. Some newer models come with replaceable tips, enhancing their longevity and versatility.
Our Top Ice Screw Picks
Best Overall Ice Screw
Black Diamond Ultralight
Key Features: This screw boasts a reduced weight of 45%, making it a must-have for climbers.
Pros: Its aluminium body with a steel tip and two clip-in points make it user-friendly. The 7.4-inch length and colour-coded knobs aid in easy identification.
Consideration: Some users may find it challenging to place correctly at first.
Best Value Ice Screw
PETZL Laser Speed Light
Key Features: A strong and effective screw suitable for various climbing situations.
Pros: The engineered tip allows for easier penetration into ice, and the aluminium tube and hanger are durable.
Consideration: Weight can be an issue, with some models reaching 13 ounces.
Noteworthy Option
Blue Ice Aero Lite Ice Screw
Key Features: This screw is the lightest option available, yet it remains sturdy in harsh conditions.
Pros: Weighing only 2 ounces for the shorter model, it offers quick placement with a three-tooth tip.
Consideration: Best utilised by experienced climbers, as it may not be suitable for beginners.